The Italian Job 2010 part II

7/4/10 – Weds and Matty and I tour all the vineyards in detail, starting with a quick doze on the very top of Foscarino after a lovely simple lunch with his mum. Pasta with amatriciana sauce and charcuterie hand cut on their prized meat slicer, the greatest of luxury items in an Italian household. It’s a beautiful hot day, an amazing view, and I could have slept for an hour.

The Colli Berici south of San Bonifacio ascend wildly to an oddly flat, gently undulating land, almost Alpine in feel. So many contorted pergola trained vines, many straining under the torture of over-production. On the westerly end of this tongue of hills projecting into the plain we arrive at the new vineyard overlooked by the tiny Oratorio de San Gregorio. Like a sun-bathed belly the rows of vines are planted on rich terra rossa soils over a mass of limestone, surmounted by a perilously steep and dense forest that acts as a wind break.  This is merlot and carmenere country, this last for years mistaken for cabernet franc.  Travelling to the upper slopes of the interior of the hills we discover the old cabernet vineyards that make up the blend of the flagship wine Bradissimo.

Back at the winery preparations for a dinner for 40 international customers are under way, with an element of uncertainty. I am put in charge of finessing it with a group of people more used to the solitary functions of the winery. Vigourous Americans, glamorous Australians, grouchy Russians and bumbling English importers are all coming. We polish and tweak, light candles, pose grissini.

I take a break on my balcony at sunset with a cigarette and Vigneto du Lot, the first Soave that really has something to say to me – perhaps my taste buds are coming back – all late-harvest yellow plum with that volcanic back palate attack and dry minerality. A fabulous colour of old gold in the glass. I get changed for dinner, not without a little anxiety that I will drink too much and offend someone.

8/4/10 – an early start to get set-up for VinItaly in Verona and despite a latish night there are no recriminations to worry about. VinItaly is a venerable institution that has grown and grown to encompass 10 pavillions featuring every conceivable Italian wine. It lasts for 5 days with the first couple dedicated solely to trade buyers, the finishing days opened up to the public. It is a marathon for producers and visitors alike, who should adopt a game plan before getting sucked in. I am not in the least prepared and after a couple of hours I decide that it would be a crime to miss out on the city of Verona, especially in such glorious weather. A taxi deposits me on Piazza Bra and within minutes I am at a cafe table with the ubiquitous Spritz in hand staring in amazement at an ancient amphitheatre. A Sptritz, which has so far failed to enter the English vernacular, is a blend of Aperol and Prosecco. Aperol seems to be a very mild form of bitters with no especial flavour but I know nothing of its origins. It is super refreshing. I wander in amazement around this city with its mix of Roman and Medieval, duomo, basilica, villa and castello. I am completely in love and planning the next trip with David standing on the bridge spanning the broad river Po that gushes lustily in an arc around the city. We return that night for pizzas and beer at Matteo’s favourite pizzeria before heading on a private tour of the city which is buzzing in every quarter with visitors to the fair. The balmy evening has brought everyone out and every square and eneteca is alive with wine and conversation. This is a vinous place with some of the oldest wine bars in Italy and I look forward to sampling them all on my return.