The Italian Job 2010

6/4/10 – Travelling to a wine region with a massive head cold is a nightmare that starts with the crossing of the the Alps and ear-splitting pain as the pressure builds in the eustacian tubes. I was rendered 80% deaf and after 24 hours on the ground I am still suffering. The drugs are not working so I have no choice but to get on with it. Matteo Inama picks up me at the airport and we head straight to the town of Altavilla for a simple, satisfying lunch. We drink Monteforche 2008 Cassiara white, a blend of Garganega and Malvasia I think. Despite my cold and lack of smell it has a smooth mouthfeel with a touch of vanilla, peach, dried fruits and with good bounce and volume.

The weather and the countryside in Soave is stunning. It is declared the first true day of Spring. The Inama winery is located close to the small town of San Bonifacio in the lee of the Foscarino hill. It is immediately clear why this hill of limestone and volcanic lava takes the prime position amongst the crus. It has a generous south-eastern facing swathe of vines. Quite unlike anything I‘ve seen before, the vines are trained like fruit trees on pergolas just above head height. There is little desire or impetus to change this style of training to the more familiar guyot on wires. The very top of the hill, which offers a fabulous prospect and a stunning view to the Colli Berici is not planted. Too steep, the soil too unstable. The classico zone extends over the surrounding hills with emphasis unsurprisingly on the slopes most exposed to the sun.

Today everything is in bloom, the ground carpeted with small yellow dandelions, blues like forget-me-nots, and whites like cow parsley. Around the vineyards white, and occasionally pink, cherry blossom sprays the air. Outside the family home in the town a magnolia has opened its magnificent lotus blooms. The nearby town of Soave is a giant fortified stronghold with stone gates topped by a largely intact castle. The steep streets are full of wine bars, including a venerable old palace at the foot of the castle converted to the purpose. It harks back to the early importance of the town and its wines before it slipped out of popularity. High yields and rather enthusiastic use of irrigation did little to improve the broader image of the neutral wines that adorned every wine list of the 80’s mainly thanks to the immodest expansion to the fertile plain.

Stefano Inama trained as a bio-chemist and the winery has the functional plainness of the scientist. It is orderly and spacious. This background surely accounts for his sceptical stance on both biodynamic and so-called natural wines. Experience though has drawn him inevitably to organics as the only way to achieve both balance and concentration in the wines; less focus on oak and winery techniques mark a ground zero in the evolution of the wines, both red and white. We can expect good things to come with more expression in the wines that have always been faultlessly clean and correct. Tasting them this last day has been a trial, more an exercise in texture than an exploration of aroma or fruit – I can’t really smell or taste much and my receptors are easily exhausted.

The Alps form the most spectacular and surprising backdrop to this charming landscape. They might be the Himalayas with their misty snow-capped crowns rising above the Foscarino Capital. Do the Gods drink Soave?

The estate was started by Stefano’s father Guiseppe in the 1950’s when he started to use his savings to buy parcels of vines in the best sites. He was growing grapes for Anselmi who was the one of the first to commercialise Soave and the Foscarino vineyard as a quality wine. On deciding to make and bottle his own wine one can easily imagine a rift arising between the two estates. In the wider picture the grape growing monoculture has effectively caused a deeper rift between the quality-conscious independent producers and the co-ops where members get paid according to weight of grapes. This schism has not helped to improve the overall image of the region. Now the independents are withdrawing from the local Consozio to promote high quality wines. New allegiances are being forged for the benefit of all.

At the Inama winery after a pastoral trip around the vineyards in beautiful sunshine and white and pink cherry blossom bursting out everywhere we taste the range.

Chardonnnay 2009 IGT Powerful, rich, grapey fruit – just bottled and leesy – almost fig and peach. Substantial and up front.

Soave Classico 2008 – Typically smooth, small fruits, lavender – textured; late autumn feel.

Foscarino 2007 – 40 year old vines. A more elegant wine – still closed. A good balance. Soft almond note. Very clean.

Carmenere Piu 2007 – 60% Carmenere, 30% Merlot, 10% Reboso – A red/black fruit brew – quite velvety but with a bit of tobacco and bite. A lot of Merlot extract. Appealing.

Bradissismo 2006 – 70% Cabernet sauvignon 30% Carmenere – A more detailed, well groomed nose, à la Bordelaise. Cooler feel and needs lots of time. The Carmenere comes back at the end with fudgey, spicy, wiry notes.

Oratorio San Lorenzo 2006 – Expensive wine from young vines. Hard to grasp – but has good vigour. Short. Squeaky tannins.

Cabernet Sauvignon Selezione 2004 – Massive colour – a big fruit and oak blockbuster. Very lactic, very tannic. Or is it just me?